CONTINUATION...
In the previous History entry,"History of Mindanao,Part VII,Part 1:History of Basilan,Sulu,and Tawi Tawi Provinces"I began with Chapter I of"The History of Sulu"by Najeeb Mitry Saleeby.Chapter I is very simply,giving a broad but highly informative discussion of the islands'topography and physical relationship to one another and in turn with Mainland Mindanao.Most Filipinos are unaware that Mindanao encompasses a plethora of smaller islands reaching to the tip of Borneo.Though today these islands are divided into three separate provinces:
1) Basilan
2) Sulu,which includes Jolo Island
3) Tawi Tawi
at the time of publication,in 1908,they were all amalgamated into a single administrative unit named"Moro Province."Unlike Mainland Mindanao these 3 provinces are entirely Islamicised and their southern most environs,on Tawi Tawi,were converted to that faith more than two centuries before Magellan planted his cross on Mindanao proper (I am one of the majority who believes that site to have been in Butuan).
I will pick up the narrative from its last point,a geographical description of Laminusa Island,and commence with a gographical discussion of Tawi Tawi...
Chapter I (continued)
The Tawi Tawi group lies to the south and west of the Tapul Group and extends as far west as the Sibutu Passage.This is the largest group in number and area,including eighty-eight islands with a combined area of 462 square miles.Its population is estimated at 25,000.These islands form two distinct divisions or subgroups,differing in both extent and population.
The first or northern division includes Bangao,Sangasanga,Tawi Tawi,Tandu Batu,and a large number of smaller islands,all of which are rough,volcanic,mountainous,and very sparsely populated.The second or southern division is a series of low,flat islands which are smaller in area but more thickly populated than those of the northern division.The principal names,beginning at the east,are the following:Kinapusan,Bintulan,Tabawan,South Ubian,Tandubas,Sikubun.Lata'an,Mantabwan,Banaran,Bilatan,Manuk-manka,and Siminul.Extensive reefs and narrow channels and shoals separate these islands from one another and from those of the northern division,rendering navigation between them impossible except in vessels of very light draft.
Bangao,Sanga-sanga,and Tawi Tawi are separated by very narrow channels and are practically one island.Bangao forms the southwest extremity and is substantially one solid rock which rises perpendicularly to a height of 228 meters.It is a conspicuous landmark to vessels going through the Sibutu Passage.The town of Bangao is a military station and an open port;it has an excellent landlocked harbor and a very poor water supply.The town has been occupied by troops since 1882,but it has never attained any size or importance.
Tawi Tawi Island is a continuous range of hills covered by thick and rich forests.The highest points in the range are the Dromedary peaks [sic] (591 meters) lying about the center of the island.The length of the island is about 34 miles and its greatest width 14 miles.It is next in size to the Island of Jolo,but it is very sparsely populated.Its chief settlements are Tungpatung,Balimbang,Lissum,and Bu'an on the south coast,and Tawi Tawi,Tata'an,Butung,Tumhubung,Tumbaga'an,Languyan,and Bas on the north.At Balimbang are built the best type of Tausug and Samal boats.Good timber abounds in the neighboring hills,and the little bay is transformed into a shipyard.The little town used to be a famous rendevouz for Samal pirates.Tata'an had formerly a Spanish garrison;the present Moro (MUSLIM) town is a little distance to the south of the ruins of the fort and is called Butung.It is built on the hillside and commands a pretty view of the sea.It lies 100 miles east of Lahat Datu,East Borneo.The anchorage is deep and safe,being well protected by a large semi-circle of reefs.A boa 30 feet long was killed on the island in 1903.Rubber and gutta-percha are found on this island.Tapioca and ubi (SPELLED UBE TODAY,A PURPLE SWEET POTATOE) are the staple products.
Sibutu lies in a little group of the same name,situated between the Tawi Tawi Group and Borneo and at a distance of about 15 miles from each.The Sibutu Pass separates it from Manuk-manka,the southernmost island of the Tawi Tawi Group,and the Alice Channel from Borneo.This island did not lie within the limits of the Philippine Islands as defined in the Treaty of Peace of December 10,1898 (BETWEEN US and SPAIN).It was ceded by Spain with Kagayan Sulu (CAGAYAN),by a separate treaty in November,1900.Its close proximity to Borneo renders it a convienent stopping place for small Moro boats navigating between Borneo and Sulu.Sitanki,an island and town,is the trade center of this group,and has just lately been made an open port.
Island of Jolo: Geographical Features
Jolo is an island of irregular shape and among the islands of the Archipelago is next in size to Basilan.Its longest diameter runs east and west and approximates 37 miles,while its average length does not exceed 32 miles.Its greatest width is 14 miles and its average width is about 10 miles.The main structure of the island is volcanic,but it is surrounded with a coral reef formation,which is most extensive in the bays and on the south.
Two indentations of the northern shore at Jolo (JOLO CITY) and Si'it and two corresponding indentation of the southern shore at Maymbung (MAIMBUNG) and Tu'tu,divide the island into three parts-western,middle,and eastern.
The Bay of Jolo is quite open and faces the northwest.It is very shallow near the shore and its head constitutes the roadstead of Jolo (JOLO CITY,WHICH I WILL USE FROM THIS POINT).The Nay of Maymbung (MAIMBUNG,WHICH I WILL USE FROM THIS POINT) is a deeper indentation,but it is narrower and shallower than the Bay of Jolo.The town of Maimbung lies at the head of the bay and is about 9 miles south of Jolo in a direct line.
The Bays of Si'it and Tu'tu indent the island to such an extent as to leave only a neck of land less than 4 miles wide,connecting the middle and eastern parts of the island.The settlement of Si'it lies at the head of the bay and in the immediate vicinity of a small lake of the same name.The shores of the Bay of Tu'tu are marshy and are covered with mangrove trees.The bay is very shallow to a considerable distance from shore.Tu'tu is the principal settlement near the head of the bay.
Near the backbone of the island is a mountain range which. Runs east and west and lies nearer to the northern shore.The highest point is Mount Tumangtangis,at the western extremity of the range.This mountain reaches a height of 853 meters above sea level and descends very rapidly to the western coast near Timahu.A spur of the mountain terminates in Point Pugut at the northwest extremity of the island.
Toward the east,the ridge descends to a much lower level at Bud Datu (MOUNT DATU),Bud Agad,and Bud Pula,which lie immediately to the south of Jolo City.It rises again in Bud Dahu to the altitude of 716 meters.Bud Dahu is a prominent landmark and forms the most picturesque landscape in the background of Jolo City.It is a steep and conical extinct volcano,similar to,but smaller and more regular in form than Mount Tumangtangis.East of Mount Dahu in another gap in which lies Tambang Pass.Beyond this the range rises again at Mount Tambang and contimues uninterrupted to Mount Sinuma'an,at the extreme end of Lati and Mount Bagshag.After Mount Bagshag the range descends gradually toward Su' and Si'it.The northern slopes of Mount Tumangtangis and Bud Dahu,and the crest of Bud Datu are ccovered with grand forests,while the crests and lower slopes of Bud Agad and Bud Pula are partly cultivated and partly covered with tall grass.
From the shores of the Bay of Jolo the land rises gradually and presents a beautiful green appearance.To the south of Bagshag lies a small extinct volcano called Panamaw or Pandakan,whose crater is now a lake.East of Si'it rise the Lu'uk mountains of Urut,Upao,and Tayungan.From these the range extends to Bud Tandu at the eastern extremity of the island.
The highlands near the southern coast of the island divide into three separate regions.The first and westernmost lies west of Maimbung and forms the principal highlands of Parang.The highest points in this region are Mount Tukay,east of the town of Parang,and Mount Mabingkang,east of Tukay.To the east of Maimbung rise Mount Talipao and Mount Kumaputkut,which form the middle and second region.The third region is the southern part of the Lu'uk country.Its highest point is Mount Bulag,to the north of Tandu-Panu'an.Between Mount Tukay and Mount Tumangtangis lies Bud Gapang.Midway between Mount Talipao and Bud Datu is Mount Kumuray,in the neighborhood of Langhub.
The largest streams on the island are Tubig Palag and Bina'an.The first is generally known as the Maimbung River.It passes through the settlement of Maimbung and empties into the head of the bay of the same name.It drains the southern slopes of Mounts Tumangtangis,Pula,Dahu,and Kumuray.The Bina'an stream drains the southern slopes of Mount Sinuma'an and the northern slopes of Mount Talipao and Kumaputkut and empties into the Bay of Tu'tu.
Principal Coast Settlements:
Beginning at Jolo City and going west along the northern coast we pass the following points of interest:The first is. Point Baylam,the western limit of the Bay of Jolo.At the head of the small bay that follows lies the settlement of Matanda,where a Spanish blockhouse marks the western limit of the Jolo City line of fortification (JOLO CITY WAS AWALLED CITY).Next comes Point Mangalus and the receding beach of Bwansa,the old capitol of Sulu (SULTUNATE OF SULU).Here and in the next bay,at Malimbay and Kansaya,Samal boats assemble in favorable weather for fishing.Back of these settlements the land rises rapidly to Mount Tumantangis.A teak forest of considerable size lies between Tumangtangis and Jolo City.
Outside of the wall of Jolo City and to the east lies the settlement of Busbus,where criminals were formerly chopped to death after being tied to a tree (TODAY A BARANGAY WITHIN JOLO CITY).A mile beyond is Mubu,where the old residence of Sultan Harun stands out prominently.Copius springs of fresh water issue at this place at a point near the high water mark.A mile farther east we come to Tandu (point or cape),where Datu Kalbi lives.This point is,generally know as Tandu Dayang Ipil ("CAPE PRINCESS IPIL) (Princess Ipil and her followers were wrecked and drowned at this point.Their bodies are said to have turned into stone and formed the rocks that line the shore.Some of the rocks seemed to the people to resemble petrified human beings) and marks the eastern limit of the Bay of Jolo.The isolsted hill of Patikul rises immediately behind Tandu.The settlement of Patikul lies still farther away on the beach.Here lives Datu Julkarnayn (Alexander the Great),the brother of Datu Kalbi.The beautiful region lying between Patikul and the mountains of Tambang and Sinuma'an is called Lati.
Buhanginin lies about midway between Patikul and Higasan.At the latter place or Tandu Manuk-manuk the shore line recedes toward the south.Opposite this point lies the island of Bakungan.Next comes the larger settlement of Taglibi,above which rises Mount Ta'ung;then Bunbun,near a point which marks the western entrance into the Bay of Si'it.Midway between Bunbun and the head of the bay is Sn' [sic],which may be said to mark the boundry line between Lati and Lu'uk.Si'it is a small settlement near the head of the bay.Beyond Si'it,the shore line turns north until it reaches Kansipat.About two miles farther,a semicircular reef off the shore makes the excellent and well-protected small harbor of Bwal.A large spring of pure,fresh water adds to this place another natural advantage,one which gave it the prominence it had in former days.The entrance into the harbor is very shallow and allows only sailboats of light draft.The channel lies close to the shore on the west side.Opposite the island of Tulayn lie Tandu-batu and a little farther inland Kuta Makis.Limawa lies about 3 miles farther on near a point opposite the island of Buli KutingBehind this island,and at the head of a shallow cove lies Patutul,the chief settlement of Tandu.East of Bud Tandu is Tandu Pansau,the easternmost point of the island.The eastern coast is exposed to storms and appears rock and barren,though the hills behind it are well cultivated.The first point on the southern coast is Tandu Panu'an,behind which lies the settlement of Sukuban.This marks the southern extremity of the boundary line between Tandu and Lu'uk.The country behind Kuta Sihi'and Pitugu appears rich and well tilled.The hills come down to the beach.Near the point at the eastern limit of Tu'tu Bay lies Kambing.The neighboring country is rich and prosperous.It is governed by Maharajah Bayrula,one of the wisest and best chiefs of Sulu.West of Kambing lie Pandang-pandang,Tubu-manuk,and Tu'tu.The shore is a continuous mangrove marsh,while the country behind is about the richest and best tilled land on the whole island.The western side of Tu'tu Bay has few places of importance.The country behind is picturesque and hillt,but not as well populated as the other parts of the island.Lubuk,Kabungkul,and Lumapit are the chief settlements.
Beyond the point of Buhangin Puti',the shore line bends again north and the Bay of Maimbung begins.Here mangrove swamps are extensive and extend a good distance inland.The greater part of Maimbung is built on piles over the water.It is surrounded by swamps on all sides.After the tide recedes,strong odors arise from the muddy bottom to such an extraordinary degree as to render the atmosphere of the place very disagreeable and often unbearable to strangers.The center of the town is a small,open square of reclaimed land filled with coral rocks.Around this square were built the houses of Sultan Jamalul A'lam and his ministers of state.The present sultan lives on a hill about half a mile inland from the town.The square was probably the site of the Maimbung fort which was destroyed by General Arolas in 1887.Some Chinese traders live in the town and export hemp (ABACA),pearls,pearl shell,etc.,through Jolo City.The population of the town and its immediate suburbs varies considerably,but it is generally estimated at 1,000.Beyond Maimbung the coast bends sharply to the south.In the immediate vicinity of Maimbung lies Bwalu.A mile west of this place begins the district of Parang.After Lipid and Lapa comes Kabali'an,the western limit of the Bay of Maimbung.The shore line then takes a more westerly direction.Passing Dandulit and Lakasan,we reach Tandu Put,where the western coast of the island begins.This southern region of Parang is well populated and is very pretty and productive.Cultivated areas are seen on the side of the mountains everywhere and they reach the very summit of Mount Tukay.
The town of Parang is one of the largest settlements on the island and has,at present,an estimated population of 1,000.It is situated at the head of a small open bay facing the southwest and commands a beautiful view of Tapul and Lugus and the intervening sheet of water.It is the capitol of the district and has one of the best markets in the Archipelago for fish,shells,and pearls.The drinking water in this neighborhood is brackish.
An islet lies off the shore near Tandu Bunga.Beyond this point the shoreline turns north to Bwisan,which is one of the most prosperous districts.Beyond Alu Pangku' the coast inclines a little east and runs to Silankan and Timahu.Extensive coconut groves and well cultivated.Fields and fruit trees of various kinds abound all along the coast from Parang to Timahu.
Districts of the Island:
The districts of the island conform in a great measure to its natural divisions.However,political reasons have modified the natural boundries and have increased the districts to six by division.These districts are Parang,Pansul,Lati,Gi'tung,Lu'uk, and Tandu.The first district on the west is Parang.A line joining the western limit of Bwalu on the south coast,with a point slightly east of the summit of Mount Tumantangis,and well projected to the sea on the north,delimits [sic] the district on the east and carves out of the Western natural division the district of Pansul$The eastern boundry of Pansul is a line running from a point 2 or 3 miles east of Maimbung to Mount Pula and Busbus.The chief reason for separating Pansul from Parang was to reserve for the sultan direct control over Jolo City and Maimbung.This district has more foreigners residing in it than any other.
A line joining Su'[sic] and Lubuk marks the eastern limit of both Lati and Gi'tung,the third and fourth districts.The watershed line joining the summits of Mount Dahu,Tambang,and Sinuma'an and falling on the east to the vicinity of Su',divides Lati on the north from Gi'tung on the south.For all practical purposes the district of Lati may be said to lie between Jolo City and Su,'and the district of Gi'tung or Talipao between Maimbung and Tu'tu.The land joining Si'it and Tu'tu'is low.On Jolo Island traditions say that when the Samals arrived in the island this neck of land was submerged and the island was divided by a channel of water.The extinct volcano of Pandakan,generally spoken of as the"Crater Lake,"which lies in the vicinity of ,may be of late origin and may have been the source of the geological deposits which helped fill the channel.Spanish records speak of a volcanic eruption in the vicinity of Jolo City as late as 1840,and it is very likely that other volcanic action occurred prior to that date and after the arrival of the Samals in the fourteenth century.
A line joining Limawa on the north and Sukuban or Tandu Panu'an on the south,divides Lu'uk from Tandu,thus forming the fifth and sisth districts respectively.A line joining Mount Tayungan and Bud Tandu divides both Lu'uk and Tandu into a northern and a southern part.In both cases the southern parts are more fertile and better cultivated and probably more thickly populated than the northern.
The Tausugs are principally agriculturis.The greater part of the people are farmers and a considerable portion of the interior of the island is under cultivation.They raise a good number of cattle,carabaos,and horses,which they utilize for tilling the soil and transporting its products.Trails cross the island in all directions and the interior is in easy communication with the sea.Fruits are good and abundant.The forests are rich in jungle products and in timber.Some copra and hemp is raised and the amount is being increased anually.The staples are tapioca,rice,and corn.Sugar cane is raised in small quantities.Ube and taro are fairly abundant.Some coffee is produced,but disease destroyed most of the plantations.Some tobacco and vegetables are raised for home consumption only.
Jolo City is one of the best fish markets in the Philippine Islands.The varieties of fish in Sulu waters are innumerable and of excellent quality.The island of Jolo surpasses Mindanao in the quality and proportional amount of its fruit.There is an abundance of mangostins (MANGOSTEENS),durians,nangkas (jack-fruits),lancones (LANZONES),marangs,mangos of several varieties (mampalam,bawnu,and wanni),oranges,custard apples,pineapples,bananas,etc.
In the extent and quality of cultivation the district of Lu'uk ranks first,Parang second,and Lati third.Good fresh water abounds everywhere except on the western coast.Considerable irrigation is possible in many localities.
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In my next History entry,"History of Mindanao,Part VIII:Jolo City at the Beginning of the 20th Century"I will continue with Dr.Saleeby's"History of Sulu,"Chapter I,in which Saleeby goes into detail about the construction of,appearance of,and general state of affairs in Jolo City which at that point was still simply called,"Jolo."
Showing posts with label History of Sulu. Show all posts
Showing posts with label History of Sulu. Show all posts
Wednesday, June 29, 2011
History of Mindanao,Part VII:The History of Basilan,Sulu,and Tawi Tawi Provinces
The following excerpt is from the very well known book,"The History of Sulu"by Najeeb Mitry Saleeby (Manila:Bureau of Printing) (1908).When Dr.Saleeby wrote this seminal volume,in 1906 (published in 1908) Basilan,Sulu and Tawi Tawi were all part of a unitary administrative unit that the Americans so creatively labeled,"Moro Province"(Muslim Province).Saleeby was a Maronite Christian born in what is now Lebanon but was then,in 1870,part of the Ottoman Empire.He emigrated to the United States and by 1897 had received his medical degree from Bellvue.Like so many young men he had a bit of wander lust,combining this penchant for adventure with the need for stable employment he accepted a position in Manila with the colonial administration.Assigned to perform an ethnographic survey he ended up attracted to Tausug Culture and to a lesser extent Filipino Muslims in general.
Chapter I: Geographical Description of the Sulu Archipelago:
The Sulu Archipelago is a series of small volcanic islands which extends in a northeast and southwest direction between the meridians of 119•10'and 122•25'east,and the parallels of 4•30'and 6•50'north.It forms a continuous chain of islands,islets,and coral reefs,which connects the peninsula of Zamboanga with the northeastern extremity of Borneo and separates the Sulu Sea from the Celebes Sea.It marks the southern line of communication between the Philippine Islands and Borneo and is probably the chief route of former emigrations and travel from Borneo to Mindanao and the southern Bisayan Islands (VISAYAN REGION OF THE PHILIPPINES).
The islands of the Archipelago are so disposed as to form several smaller groups,the most important of which are the following:The Basilan Group (NOW SPLIT BETWEEN 4 PROVINCES:BASILAN,ZAMBONGA DEL NORTE,ZAMBOANGA SIBUGAY,AND ZAMBOANGA DEL SUR),the Balangingi or Samal Group,the Sulu Group,the Pangutaran Group,the Tapul or Siasi Group,and the Tawi Tawi Group (TODAY A SEPARATE PROVINCE).
The Basilan Group is the first on the north and includes the Island of Basilan and fifty-six small adjacent islands,all of which lie north of the parallel of 6•15'north and east of the meridian of 121•19'east.This group,under the name of Basilan,constituted the sixth district of the politico-military government of Mindanao,organized by the Spanish Government in 1861.Since that date the islands forming this group have not been recognized politically as a part of the Sulu Archipelago.
Basilan is the largest island in the Archipelago.Its northernmost point is about 10 miles directly south of Zamboanga.The island is more or less circular in outline and has a radius approximately 11 miles long.Its area is about 400 square miles.Two prominent headlands projecting,one on the east and one on the west,give the island a maximum length of 36 miles.The greatest width,north and south,is 24 miles.The eastern headland is long and has a picturesque,conical peak,called Mount Matangal,which rises about 648 meters above sea level.This peak is a very prominent landmark,visible to a great distance from all points in the Celebes Sea and in the Straits of the Celebes Sea and in the Straits of Basilan.The western headland is less prominent.It has an isolated peak about 287 meters above the sea,immediately north of the settlement of Pangasa'an.The position of this peak makes it a conspicuous landmark to vessels entering the Straits of Basilan from the Sulu Sea.
The surface of the island is high and hilly.Twenty-three peaks are recognized,forming two distinct series of ranges,central and peripheral.The central regiom of the island is an elevated tableland,out of which rise a number of peaks forming the central series and ranging from 609 to 1,019 meters above sea level.A thick forest covers this region.The rivers are small and dry up in the dry season.Few Yakans (INDIGINOUS TRIBE) are to be found there,and their houses are isolated and far apart.No cultivation is carried on in the interior.On the outside of this region rises the peripheral series of hills or peaks which lie parallel and near to the coast.With the exception of the two,all of these peaks are below 304 meters in height.The drop from this line of hills to the coast is rapid in some places,and in general the shoreline is low and swampy and covered with mangrove trees.The three largest valleys in the island are those of Gubawan or Lamitan on the northeast,Kumalarang on the northwest,and Malusu on the west.The region is generally considered fertile,but it has a marked dry season and droughts are not rare.
The island is very rich in timber;all its hills and mountains are forest-clad to their summits.Excellent boats are constructed on the south and west coasts of the island which rival the Tawi Tawi boats in every particular.A few Americans have started hemp and coconut plantations on the north coast,but native cultivation is not extensive and compares very poorly with that of the Islands of Sulu (JOLO),Tapul,and Siasi.Most of the cultivation on the island is carried on by Yakans,the Samals living chiefly on the products of the sea.The staple products of the soil are rice,tapioca,and corn.Ubi (a kind of tuber as food) (PURPLE SWEET POTATOE,SPELLED LOCALLY AS"UBE"),camotes (sweet potaoes),and wild fruits abound.The number of cattle is not inconsiderable (HE IS RERRING TO CARABOA,WATER BUFFALO),but horses are few.Most of the settlements on the island are on the seacoast and lie on the north and the west coasts.The larger ones,beginning at Isabela,and going east,are,on the north,Isabela,Patasan or Balaktasan,Malu'ung,Nipa,Lamitan,Tagima,Kandi'is;on the east,Tambunan,Buhi-lubung,and Ubung;on the south,Amalwi,Giyung,and Mangal;on the west,Libuk,Kabkaban,Kanas,Malusu,and Pangasa'an;on the north,Bulansa,Atung-atung,Batanay,and Panigayan (NOT ON BASILAN BUT ON AN ISLET OF THE SAME NAME DIRECTLY OFF OF THE BASILAN COAST).The prominent chiefs on the island live at Lamitan,Ubung,and Malusu,which form the prnicipal centers of native power.The old name of Basilan was Tagima,so called after the name of the old settlement of Tagima mentioned above.
Isabela may be considered as the capitol of Basilan.Its old name is Pasangan,which is still the name of the stream at the mouth of which it is built.The town is situated 4 miles inland,on the narrow channel which separates Basilan from the small island of Malamawi.The channel widens a little at this point and forms an excellent harbor.Under Spanish jurisdiction it was a naval station with a drydock for gunboats.An aqueduct furnishes the town with fresh water brought from a small stream in the neighborhood.The stone fort Isabel II,built on the hill in 1842,commands both entrances of the channel.It was designed to defend the town against the Moros (MUSLIMS).The abandonment of the town as a naval station has led to its present decline.An American sawmill planted there has been the chief source of lumber supply for the town of Zamboanga and neighborhood.
The largest islands in this group,excepting Basilan,are Baluk-baluk and Pilas,both of which lie west of Basilan.A narrow channel which lies in the direct route leading from Zamboanga to Jolo separates these two islands.Tapiantana,Salupin,Bubwan,and Lanawan are the largest islands of the group south of Basilan.
The population of this whole group is generally estimated at 25,000.Of these,15,000 live in Basilan itself.The inhabitants of Basilan proper are Yakans and Samals,while the adjacent islands are occupied entirely by Samals.The Yakan are the aborigines of Basilan and extend further into the interior than the Samals.
Basilan never enjoyed political independence (ACTUALLY,SINCE PUBLICATION NEARLY 100 YEARS AGO CHINESE SOURCES HAVE SHOWN THAT INDEED THE ISLAND WAS ONCE AN INDEPENDENT KINGDOM IN THE PRE-ISLAMIC ERA).Before Spanish rule it was governed by Sulu datus and paid tribute to the Sultan of Sulu.Under the datus,subordinate Samal panglimas and maharajas had charge of the various communities or settlements.The Samals of Basilan are at present stronger than other Samals and enjoy a greater degree of liberty and self-government than their brothers in the Tawi Tawi Group.
The Balangingi Group lies east of the meridian 121•28'east and to the south of the Basilan Group.It has nineteen islands,the principal ones of which are Tonkil,Balangingi,Simisa,Tatalan,Bukutwa,Bim,Bangalaw.The islands of this group are small and low and do not exceed 38 square miles in area.Their inhabitants are Samals (THERE IS ANTHROPOLIGICAL DEBATE AS TO WHETHER THEY ARE SAMAL OR ACTUALLY A GROUP ONTO THEMSELVES.THE CONSENSUS IS THAT THEY WERE ON THE CUSP OF DISTINCTION UNTIL THE SPANISH NEARLY EXTERMINATED THE BULK OF THE POPULATION).The people of Balangingi and Tonkil were notorious pirates.They built strong forts and once surpassed all other Samals in power,political,organization,and prosperity.
The Jolo Group (CALLED SULU GROUP BY AUTHOR) which lies west of the Balangingi Group and north of the parallel of 5•46'north.Its western boundry may be sent [sic] at the meridian of 120•46' east.It consists of about twenty-nine islands with a total of 380 square miles.The principal island of this group is Sulu (JOLO,HENCEWORTH I WILL USE THE MODERN TERM JOLO SO AS NOT TO CONFUSE READERS).To the north of Jolo lie Pangasinan,Marongas,Kabukan,Bubwan,Minis,Hegad,and a few others;to the east lie Tulayan,Kapwal,and Bitinan;to the south,Pata and Patyan.
Tulayan lies north of Tandu and is separated from it by a narrow strait.It has a good harbor on the southern side.It was ceded to the English on 1763 by Sultan Alimud Din I (OF SULU) out of appreciation of the favor done in releasing him from prison in Manila and reinstating him as Sultan of Sulu.The English however,never made any use of the island.Pata is,next to Jolo,the largest island of the group.It is mountainous and well populated.The description of the island of Jolo is given separately at the end of this chapter.
The Panguturan Group lies west of the Jolo Group and north of the sixth parallel.It has fourteen islands and an area of 72 square miles.The principal members of the group are Panguturan,Pandukan,North Ubian,Laparan,and Tababas or Cap.They are all low and flat with little more than trees visible from the sea.They are surrounded by coral reefs and sand banks,which in places form lagoons which can be entered only at high water.The drinking water in these islands is brackish in the hot season and has a black color during rains.Very often people go as far as the Island of Jolo to get good water.Panguturan is the fifth island in the Archipelago in size,being 11 miles long,north and south,and 8 miles wide,from east to west,its chief settlement is Maglakub.Its northern and eastern coasts are the best populated.The inhabitants of this group are chiefly Samals;few Sulus (TAUSUGS) are found mixed with them.Coconut trees and tapioca plants grow well in places.
The Siasi Group lie to south and west of the Jolo Group,east of the meridian of 120•33'east,and north of the parallel of 5•24'north.It has thirty-eight islands with an aggregate area of 77 square miles.Its population is estimated at 20,000.The principal islands of this group are Siasi,Pandami,Lugus,Tapul,Laminusa,and Kabinga'an.The first four are volcanic islands of some size;the last two are low and flat.Tapul is the nearest island to the group of Jolo.It is more or less round in circumfrence and rises in the middle of a picturesque conical peak 505 meters above the sea.It is almost 5 miles in diameter and is separated from Lugus by a very narrow channel.The island is 8 miles south of Jolo Island,is well cultivated,and appears very attractive from the sea.It supports a considerable population and several fairly prosperous settlements.The people are mostly Tausugs;they are very warlike and take great pride in their traditions.
The chief settlement of this island is Kanawi,where lives Sharif [sic] Alawi,the strongest chief of the island.Buhabgin Hawpu,Pangpang,and Pagatpat all lie on the southern coast,east of Kanawi.The settlements on the western coast are,beginning at the south,Suba Pukul,Kawimpang,Tigbas,Banting,Kutabatu,Bagus;on the northern coast,Kawimpang,Pangdan,;on the eastern coast,Sampunay,Tulakan,.Lugus is the larger island.Its long diameter extends 9 miles east and west,and it has an area of 18 square miles.It is hilly and rough;but the northern shore is fairly well cultivated.
The chief settlements are on the western coast.They are Baabas,where Datu Amilusin used to live,and Bulipungpung.On the north lie,beginning at the east,Gapas,Ba'it-Ba'it,and Hawit,the place of Maharaja Sharafud Din;on the east Kalu'ukan,the residence of Panglima Salahud Din;on the south Aluduyung,and the Island of Munupunu.
Diasi and Pandami are separated by a narrow channel which forms a good anchorage for vessels.Siasi is prettier than Tapul in form and is larger,but not equally wooded.It has an isolated,conical,and beautiful peak in the center rising to 509 meters above sea level.The island is about 7 miles in diameter and has an area of 39 square miles.Reefs and numerous inlets form a fringe off the east and south coasts and these teem with Samal houses.It is thickly settled,fairly well cultivated,and has,in proportion to its size,a considerable number of horses and cattle.The majority of people are Samals,but the chief rulers and some of their retinue are Tausugs.In this respect this island follows the general rule governing all the larger islands of the Archipelago outside of Jolo Island.The town of Siasi is on the western side.It lies on the Pandami Channel and has a good harbor and a spring rising at the base of the western slope of the mountain supplies the town with fresh water.
A detachment of Spanish troops occupied the town in 1882 a built a stone fort and barracks.American troops were there from 1900 to 1904,when they were relieved by a detachment of the Philippine Constalbury.An effort was made in 1899 by the present sultan,Jamalul Kiram II,to retain Siasi under his own jurisdiction for the establishment of a custom-house (CUSTOMS INSPECTION STATION) where he could collect duties on foreign goods,as was formerly done by his father;but no such rights were conceeded to him.Siasi is a closed port at present.The residents of the town are Samals and Chinese traders.They vary from 500 to 700 in number.The other settlements on the island are,on the north,Siyundu,Pagatpat,and Manta;on the east,Pamungunan,Tanjun,Sipanding,and Bulikulul;on the south,Dugu Latung,and Musu;on the west,Nipanipa,Jambanganan,Dungus,and Sablay;in the interior,Kabubu,Ju,and Kungatad.Siasi and Laminusa are important centers of pearl and shell fishing.About 2,000 Samals live on Laminusa.
Pandami is an attractive island.Its long diameter runs north and south.Two round peaks,one at each end of the island,give it the shape of a saddle and make a picturesque sight from the sea.The people are chiefly Samals ruled by Tausug datus.Its best settlements are on the west and south.The name given to this island on Spanish maps is Lapak,which is the name of one of its southern settlements.The northern extremity of the island is Diadia Point,the northeast projection is Butun Point.The chief settlements on the west are,beginning at the north,Subasuba,Tabunan,Pari'an,Pandami,Tubig-shina,Lahi,and Sibaeud,which lies on a reef off the southern point of the island.On the east lie Ambilan,Bakal,and Lapak.Laminusa and Kabinga'an lie on the east of Siasi.They are small but thickly populated by Samals.The chief settlements of Laminusa are Tampan on the north and Kungkung on the south.
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I will conclude Chapter I (I know,I know,boring,but it does help to know the geography of the region as well as the place names used at that point in time).
Chapter I: Geographical Description of the Sulu Archipelago:
The Sulu Archipelago is a series of small volcanic islands which extends in a northeast and southwest direction between the meridians of 119•10'and 122•25'east,and the parallels of 4•30'and 6•50'north.It forms a continuous chain of islands,islets,and coral reefs,which connects the peninsula of Zamboanga with the northeastern extremity of Borneo and separates the Sulu Sea from the Celebes Sea.It marks the southern line of communication between the Philippine Islands and Borneo and is probably the chief route of former emigrations and travel from Borneo to Mindanao and the southern Bisayan Islands (VISAYAN REGION OF THE PHILIPPINES).
The islands of the Archipelago are so disposed as to form several smaller groups,the most important of which are the following:The Basilan Group (NOW SPLIT BETWEEN 4 PROVINCES:BASILAN,ZAMBONGA DEL NORTE,ZAMBOANGA SIBUGAY,AND ZAMBOANGA DEL SUR),the Balangingi or Samal Group,the Sulu Group,the Pangutaran Group,the Tapul or Siasi Group,and the Tawi Tawi Group (TODAY A SEPARATE PROVINCE).
The Basilan Group is the first on the north and includes the Island of Basilan and fifty-six small adjacent islands,all of which lie north of the parallel of 6•15'north and east of the meridian of 121•19'east.This group,under the name of Basilan,constituted the sixth district of the politico-military government of Mindanao,organized by the Spanish Government in 1861.Since that date the islands forming this group have not been recognized politically as a part of the Sulu Archipelago.
Basilan is the largest island in the Archipelago.Its northernmost point is about 10 miles directly south of Zamboanga.The island is more or less circular in outline and has a radius approximately 11 miles long.Its area is about 400 square miles.Two prominent headlands projecting,one on the east and one on the west,give the island a maximum length of 36 miles.The greatest width,north and south,is 24 miles.The eastern headland is long and has a picturesque,conical peak,called Mount Matangal,which rises about 648 meters above sea level.This peak is a very prominent landmark,visible to a great distance from all points in the Celebes Sea and in the Straits of the Celebes Sea and in the Straits of Basilan.The western headland is less prominent.It has an isolated peak about 287 meters above the sea,immediately north of the settlement of Pangasa'an.The position of this peak makes it a conspicuous landmark to vessels entering the Straits of Basilan from the Sulu Sea.
The surface of the island is high and hilly.Twenty-three peaks are recognized,forming two distinct series of ranges,central and peripheral.The central regiom of the island is an elevated tableland,out of which rise a number of peaks forming the central series and ranging from 609 to 1,019 meters above sea level.A thick forest covers this region.The rivers are small and dry up in the dry season.Few Yakans (INDIGINOUS TRIBE) are to be found there,and their houses are isolated and far apart.No cultivation is carried on in the interior.On the outside of this region rises the peripheral series of hills or peaks which lie parallel and near to the coast.With the exception of the two,all of these peaks are below 304 meters in height.The drop from this line of hills to the coast is rapid in some places,and in general the shoreline is low and swampy and covered with mangrove trees.The three largest valleys in the island are those of Gubawan or Lamitan on the northeast,Kumalarang on the northwest,and Malusu on the west.The region is generally considered fertile,but it has a marked dry season and droughts are not rare.
The island is very rich in timber;all its hills and mountains are forest-clad to their summits.Excellent boats are constructed on the south and west coasts of the island which rival the Tawi Tawi boats in every particular.A few Americans have started hemp and coconut plantations on the north coast,but native cultivation is not extensive and compares very poorly with that of the Islands of Sulu (JOLO),Tapul,and Siasi.Most of the cultivation on the island is carried on by Yakans,the Samals living chiefly on the products of the sea.The staple products of the soil are rice,tapioca,and corn.Ubi (a kind of tuber as food) (PURPLE SWEET POTATOE,SPELLED LOCALLY AS"UBE"),camotes (sweet potaoes),and wild fruits abound.The number of cattle is not inconsiderable (HE IS RERRING TO CARABOA,WATER BUFFALO),but horses are few.Most of the settlements on the island are on the seacoast and lie on the north and the west coasts.The larger ones,beginning at Isabela,and going east,are,on the north,Isabela,Patasan or Balaktasan,Malu'ung,Nipa,Lamitan,Tagima,Kandi'is;on the east,Tambunan,Buhi-lubung,and Ubung;on the south,Amalwi,Giyung,and Mangal;on the west,Libuk,Kabkaban,Kanas,Malusu,and Pangasa'an;on the north,Bulansa,Atung-atung,Batanay,and Panigayan (NOT ON BASILAN BUT ON AN ISLET OF THE SAME NAME DIRECTLY OFF OF THE BASILAN COAST).The prominent chiefs on the island live at Lamitan,Ubung,and Malusu,which form the prnicipal centers of native power.The old name of Basilan was Tagima,so called after the name of the old settlement of Tagima mentioned above.
Isabela may be considered as the capitol of Basilan.Its old name is Pasangan,which is still the name of the stream at the mouth of which it is built.The town is situated 4 miles inland,on the narrow channel which separates Basilan from the small island of Malamawi.The channel widens a little at this point and forms an excellent harbor.Under Spanish jurisdiction it was a naval station with a drydock for gunboats.An aqueduct furnishes the town with fresh water brought from a small stream in the neighborhood.The stone fort Isabel II,built on the hill in 1842,commands both entrances of the channel.It was designed to defend the town against the Moros (MUSLIMS).The abandonment of the town as a naval station has led to its present decline.An American sawmill planted there has been the chief source of lumber supply for the town of Zamboanga and neighborhood.
The largest islands in this group,excepting Basilan,are Baluk-baluk and Pilas,both of which lie west of Basilan.A narrow channel which lies in the direct route leading from Zamboanga to Jolo separates these two islands.Tapiantana,Salupin,Bubwan,and Lanawan are the largest islands of the group south of Basilan.
The population of this whole group is generally estimated at 25,000.Of these,15,000 live in Basilan itself.The inhabitants of Basilan proper are Yakans and Samals,while the adjacent islands are occupied entirely by Samals.The Yakan are the aborigines of Basilan and extend further into the interior than the Samals.
Basilan never enjoyed political independence (ACTUALLY,SINCE PUBLICATION NEARLY 100 YEARS AGO CHINESE SOURCES HAVE SHOWN THAT INDEED THE ISLAND WAS ONCE AN INDEPENDENT KINGDOM IN THE PRE-ISLAMIC ERA).Before Spanish rule it was governed by Sulu datus and paid tribute to the Sultan of Sulu.Under the datus,subordinate Samal panglimas and maharajas had charge of the various communities or settlements.The Samals of Basilan are at present stronger than other Samals and enjoy a greater degree of liberty and self-government than their brothers in the Tawi Tawi Group.
The Balangingi Group lies east of the meridian 121•28'east and to the south of the Basilan Group.It has nineteen islands,the principal ones of which are Tonkil,Balangingi,Simisa,Tatalan,Bukutwa,Bim,Bangalaw.The islands of this group are small and low and do not exceed 38 square miles in area.Their inhabitants are Samals (THERE IS ANTHROPOLIGICAL DEBATE AS TO WHETHER THEY ARE SAMAL OR ACTUALLY A GROUP ONTO THEMSELVES.THE CONSENSUS IS THAT THEY WERE ON THE CUSP OF DISTINCTION UNTIL THE SPANISH NEARLY EXTERMINATED THE BULK OF THE POPULATION).The people of Balangingi and Tonkil were notorious pirates.They built strong forts and once surpassed all other Samals in power,political,organization,and prosperity.
The Jolo Group (CALLED SULU GROUP BY AUTHOR) which lies west of the Balangingi Group and north of the parallel of 5•46'north.Its western boundry may be sent [sic] at the meridian of 120•46' east.It consists of about twenty-nine islands with a total of 380 square miles.The principal island of this group is Sulu (JOLO,HENCEWORTH I WILL USE THE MODERN TERM JOLO SO AS NOT TO CONFUSE READERS).To the north of Jolo lie Pangasinan,Marongas,Kabukan,Bubwan,Minis,Hegad,and a few others;to the east lie Tulayan,Kapwal,and Bitinan;to the south,Pata and Patyan.
Tulayan lies north of Tandu and is separated from it by a narrow strait.It has a good harbor on the southern side.It was ceded to the English on 1763 by Sultan Alimud Din I (OF SULU) out of appreciation of the favor done in releasing him from prison in Manila and reinstating him as Sultan of Sulu.The English however,never made any use of the island.Pata is,next to Jolo,the largest island of the group.It is mountainous and well populated.The description of the island of Jolo is given separately at the end of this chapter.
The Panguturan Group lies west of the Jolo Group and north of the sixth parallel.It has fourteen islands and an area of 72 square miles.The principal members of the group are Panguturan,Pandukan,North Ubian,Laparan,and Tababas or Cap.They are all low and flat with little more than trees visible from the sea.They are surrounded by coral reefs and sand banks,which in places form lagoons which can be entered only at high water.The drinking water in these islands is brackish in the hot season and has a black color during rains.Very often people go as far as the Island of Jolo to get good water.Panguturan is the fifth island in the Archipelago in size,being 11 miles long,north and south,and 8 miles wide,from east to west,its chief settlement is Maglakub.Its northern and eastern coasts are the best populated.The inhabitants of this group are chiefly Samals;few Sulus (TAUSUGS) are found mixed with them.Coconut trees and tapioca plants grow well in places.
The Siasi Group lie to south and west of the Jolo Group,east of the meridian of 120•33'east,and north of the parallel of 5•24'north.It has thirty-eight islands with an aggregate area of 77 square miles.Its population is estimated at 20,000.The principal islands of this group are Siasi,Pandami,Lugus,Tapul,Laminusa,and Kabinga'an.The first four are volcanic islands of some size;the last two are low and flat.Tapul is the nearest island to the group of Jolo.It is more or less round in circumfrence and rises in the middle of a picturesque conical peak 505 meters above the sea.It is almost 5 miles in diameter and is separated from Lugus by a very narrow channel.The island is 8 miles south of Jolo Island,is well cultivated,and appears very attractive from the sea.It supports a considerable population and several fairly prosperous settlements.The people are mostly Tausugs;they are very warlike and take great pride in their traditions.
The chief settlement of this island is Kanawi,where lives Sharif [sic] Alawi,the strongest chief of the island.Buhabgin Hawpu,Pangpang,and Pagatpat all lie on the southern coast,east of Kanawi.The settlements on the western coast are,beginning at the south,Suba Pukul,Kawimpang,Tigbas,Banting,Kutabatu,Bagus;on the northern coast,Kawimpang,Pangdan,;on the eastern coast,Sampunay,Tulakan,.Lugus is the larger island.Its long diameter extends 9 miles east and west,and it has an area of 18 square miles.It is hilly and rough;but the northern shore is fairly well cultivated.
The chief settlements are on the western coast.They are Baabas,where Datu Amilusin used to live,and Bulipungpung.On the north lie,beginning at the east,Gapas,Ba'it-Ba'it,and Hawit,the place of Maharaja Sharafud Din;on the east Kalu'ukan,the residence of Panglima Salahud Din;on the south Aluduyung,and the Island of Munupunu.
Diasi and Pandami are separated by a narrow channel which forms a good anchorage for vessels.Siasi is prettier than Tapul in form and is larger,but not equally wooded.It has an isolated,conical,and beautiful peak in the center rising to 509 meters above sea level.The island is about 7 miles in diameter and has an area of 39 square miles.Reefs and numerous inlets form a fringe off the east and south coasts and these teem with Samal houses.It is thickly settled,fairly well cultivated,and has,in proportion to its size,a considerable number of horses and cattle.The majority of people are Samals,but the chief rulers and some of their retinue are Tausugs.In this respect this island follows the general rule governing all the larger islands of the Archipelago outside of Jolo Island.The town of Siasi is on the western side.It lies on the Pandami Channel and has a good harbor and a spring rising at the base of the western slope of the mountain supplies the town with fresh water.
A detachment of Spanish troops occupied the town in 1882 a built a stone fort and barracks.American troops were there from 1900 to 1904,when they were relieved by a detachment of the Philippine Constalbury.An effort was made in 1899 by the present sultan,Jamalul Kiram II,to retain Siasi under his own jurisdiction for the establishment of a custom-house (CUSTOMS INSPECTION STATION) where he could collect duties on foreign goods,as was formerly done by his father;but no such rights were conceeded to him.Siasi is a closed port at present.The residents of the town are Samals and Chinese traders.They vary from 500 to 700 in number.The other settlements on the island are,on the north,Siyundu,Pagatpat,and Manta;on the east,Pamungunan,Tanjun,Sipanding,and Bulikulul;on the south,Dugu Latung,and Musu;on the west,Nipanipa,Jambanganan,Dungus,and Sablay;in the interior,Kabubu,Ju,and Kungatad.Siasi and Laminusa are important centers of pearl and shell fishing.About 2,000 Samals live on Laminusa.
Pandami is an attractive island.Its long diameter runs north and south.Two round peaks,one at each end of the island,give it the shape of a saddle and make a picturesque sight from the sea.The people are chiefly Samals ruled by Tausug datus.Its best settlements are on the west and south.The name given to this island on Spanish maps is Lapak,which is the name of one of its southern settlements.The northern extremity of the island is Diadia Point,the northeast projection is Butun Point.The chief settlements on the west are,beginning at the north,Subasuba,Tabunan,Pari'an,Pandami,Tubig-shina,Lahi,and Sibaeud,which lies on a reef off the southern point of the island.On the east lie Ambilan,Bakal,and Lapak.Laminusa and Kabinga'an lie on the east of Siasi.They are small but thickly populated by Samals.The chief settlements of Laminusa are Tampan on the north and Kungkung on the south.
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I will conclude Chapter I (I know,I know,boring,but it does help to know the geography of the region as well as the place names used at that point in time).
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